二羟基丙酮免晒美黑凝胶的配方设计与功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.04.009

Abstract

Abstract:

The effects of the types and dosage of thickener, the ratio of solvent, the content of dihydroxyacetone and the preparation technology on the formulation design of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel were studied. Through sensory evaluation such as appearance, spreading property, stability and efficacy evaluation, the better formulation was determined synthetically, which laid a theoretical foundation for the development of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel. The results show that 2% hydroxyethyl cellulose should be used as the thickener of dihydroxyacetone tanner gel. The solvent is ethanol, propylene glycol and glycerol with a mass ratio of 10︰5︰3. The better process is heating to dissolve the thickener, then adding dihydroxyacetone after cooling. The color of tanning can be obtained when the content of dihydroxyacetone is 3%~17%.

Key words: dihydroxyacetone, cosmetics, sunless tanner agent, skin lightness test

CLC Number:

TQ658

YANG Yi,XU Jian,ZHAO Meng-tian,CAO Gao. Formulation design and efficacy study of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(4): 319-323.

Figures/Tables 10

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References 13

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组分	w/%
组分	配方1	配方2	配方3	配方4	配方5	配方6
DHA	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0
卡波姆U21	1.0	2.0	—	—	—	—
羟乙基纤维素	—	—	1.0	2.0	—	—
海藻酸钠	—	—	—	—	1.0	2.0
乙醇	18.0	18.0	18.0	18.0	18.0	18.0
K350	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
PVPK30	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2
EDTA-2Na	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
三乙醇胺	1.0	2.0	—	—	—	—
去离子水	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100

组别	pH值	耐热性	耐寒性	长期稳定性	外观	铺展性	功效性
配方1	6.04	是	是	21 d变黄	8.1	5.6	6.4
配方2	6.10	是	是	14 d变黄	7.3	7.3	6.0
配方3	4.10	是	是	91 d未变	9.1	3.7	6.6
配方4	3.71	是	是	91 d未变	9.6	5.2	6.7
配方5	4.99	是	是	28 d变黄	5.2	6.1	6.5
配方6	5.14	是	是	28 d变黄	5.3	6.6	6.5

组分	w/%
组分	配方4	配方7	配方8	配方9	配方10	配方11
DHA	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0
羟乙基纤维素	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0
乙醇	18.0	9.0	9.0	6.0	10.0	10.0
丙二醇	—	9.0	—	6.0	3.0	5.0
丙三醇	—	—	9.0	6.0	5.0	3.0
K350	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
PVPK30	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2
EDTA-2Na	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
去离子水	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100

组别	pH值	耐热性	耐寒性	长期稳定性（91 d）	外观	铺展性	功效性
配方4	3.71	是	是	未变	9.6	5.2	6.7
配方7	3.70	否	是	未变	8.2	5.3	6.8
配方8	3.75	是	是	未变	8.1	7.1	6.7
配方9	3.71	是	是	未变	7.5	6.0	6.9
配方10	3.74	是	是	未变	9.2	5.1	6.8
配方11	3.75	是	是	未变	9.5	5.1	6.9

操作工艺	pH值	外观	铺展性	功效性
原工艺	3.75	9.5	5.1	6.9
凝胶半成品冷却后加入DHA	3.79	9.7	5.0	7.6
在醇溶液中加入DHA	3.67	9.4	5.2	7.1
凝胶半成品和醇溶液后加入DHA	3.68	9.3	5.2	7.3

Formulation design and efficacy study of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel

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组分	w/%
组分	配方11	配方12	配方13	配方14	配方15	配方16	配方17	配方18	配方19	配方20	配方21	空白组
DHA	5.0	1.0	3.0	7.0	9.0	11.0	13.0	15.0	17.0	19.0	21.0	0
羟乙基纤维素	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0
乙醇	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0
丙二醇	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	3.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0
丙三醇	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0	5.0	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0
K350	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
PVPK30	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2
EDTA-2Na	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
去离子水	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100

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