纳米结构脂质载体制备方法及在化妆品中的应用研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.009

Abstract

CLC Number:

TQ658

LIU Qing-xia,XU Meng-yi,WEN Zi-min,ZHU Yong-chuang,GONG Sheng-zhao,ZHANG Yong. Progress in preparation of nanostructured lipid carriersand its application in cosmetics[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(10): 681-687.

Figures/Tables 2

Fig. 1

Tab. 1

Research status of NLC technology"

方法	活性成分	功效	脂质和乳化剂	粒径	主要研究结果	参考文献
热高压均质法	α-硫辛酸（LA）（辅酶）	抗氧化	Apifil、Miglyol^?812（辛酸/癸酸三甘油酯）、pluronic^?F68（泊洛沙姆）	（103±9）nm	制备得到可负载水溶性差的α-硫辛酸的胶态载体	[17]
热高压均质法	辅酶Q10	抗氧化	Miglyol^?812、Precifac^?ATO、癸酸聚乙二醇甘油酯、Tegocare 450	（195.9±3.6）nm	物理稳定性好,可实现双重释放模式,即初期快速释放至皮肤饱和,然后长效缓释以维持Q10在皮肤中的浓度	[18]
热高压均质法	番茄红素	抗氧化	橙蜡、米糠油、Eumulgin^?SG	150~160 nm	包封率高,前6 h快速释放,后18 h匀速释放,抗氧化性能提升	[19]
高压均质法	白藜芦醇	细胞内抗氧活性、抗菌	山嵛酸甘油酯、Comprotol^?888 ATO Miglyol	（287.2±5.1）, （110±1.3）nm	与SLN相比,NLC粒子具有更小粒径,更高的负载量和更强的抗氧化活性	[20]
高压均质法	四氢姜黄素和苯乙基间苯二酚复合	美白功效和抗衰老	辛酸癸酸甘油酯、乙酰化单甘酯和单硬脂酸甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯和PEG-40硬脂酸酯	（351±2）nm	负载量高、稳定性好、美白性能优异等优点	[21]
高压均质法	苯酮-3（BP-3）、对甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯（OMC）	防晒剂	固体脂质（CP、棕榈蜡或蜂蜡）、GTCC	（138.7±0.5）nm	紫外吸收能力提高,被包覆的防晒剂光异构化程度降低	[22]
高压均质法	乙基己基三嗪酮、氧化锌	复合防晒剂	ODO、乙酰化单甘酯、Olivem^?800和Olivem^?1000	（314±4）nm	具有良好的稳定性	[23]
热高压均质法	二苯酮-3和对甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯	防晒剂	辛酸癸酸甘油三酯、鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯（A165）、泊洛沙姆 188、大豆卵磷脂	192.4 nm	复合乳化剂可增加防晒剂的包封率	[24]
乳化超声法	rhEGF	重组人表皮生长因子	Precirol^?ATO5、Miglyol^?182、泊洛沙姆、吐温80	（330.7±3.59）nm	提高皮肤愈合效果	[25]
乳化超声法	苯乙基间苯二酚	美白	二十二醇、辛酸癸酸三甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、甲基葡糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯、EG-20甲基葡糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯	（153.9±8.3）nm	粒径小、包覆率高和稳定性良好,缓释。可增加皮肤滞留量,减少渗透,有利于活性成分作用于皮肤而不会渗入机体对机体造成不良影响	[11]
乳化超声法	甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯（3%）、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷（2%）	防晒剂	鲸蜡硬酯基酸-20（5%）、氢化蓖麻油（2%）、辛酸癸酸三甘油酯（6%）	305 nm	防晒剂的稳定性提高,并且起到了协同防晒的作用	[26]
乳化超声法	摩洛哥坚果油	保湿,抗衰老	Precifac^?ATO5、Softisan 142、摩洛哥坚果油、吐温80	（137.70±0.70）nm	与空白样相比,NLC使皮肤保湿性提高	[27]
乳化蒸发-低温固化法	槲皮素	抗炎	单硬脂酸甘油酯、中链甘油三酯（MCT）	215.2 nm	增加活性物表皮保留率	[28]
乳化超声法	维生素E	保湿、润肤	Precifac^?ATO 5、维生素E、吐温80	105 nm	生物相容性好,无刺激	[29]
溶剂扩散法	羟苯甲酮	防晒剂	单硬脂酸甘油酯、Miglyol^?812、油酸、聚乙烯醇（PVA）、Carbopol^?934P（卡波姆934P）	（327±30）~（797±100）nm	提高体外防晒因子和UVA防护值超过6倍和8倍,减少副作用	[30]

Tab. 1

References 53

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Progress in preparation of nanostructured lipid carriersand its application in cosmetics

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